A cuisine full of taste
11:20 PM |
The famous Santorini cherry tomato is a unique variety that flourishes thanks to the arid soil and dominated the islands cultivating from the 18th to the 20th century. Tomato paste and tomato balls (a traditional dish of Santorini) are produced from cherry tomato and have a really inimitable taste.
The most characteristic products of Santorini are:
Fava-Split peas
Santorini split peas have also distinctive attributes as they become mushy on their own, they have a purer aroma and they are tighter. You will find them in many recipes, along with onion, with small pieces of pork, with aubergines and tomatoes, as well as in the form of soup.
Fresh cheese
Fresh goat cheese with a creamy texture and a slightly sour taste.
Capers
In the island you will find shrubs of wild capers, from which we collect the blossom and the leaves. It has a characteristic sharp aroma and a spicy taste.White aubergine
It differs from the others as it is sweet and juicy due to the particular features of the soil.
Watermelon
Katsouni
A type of cucumber that is very tasty thanks to the microclimate and the terrain's compositionWhite aubergine
White aubergine
Traditional produce of Santorini. Its seed originates from Egypt (from the time when pumice stone was exported to Suez). Due to the terrain it does not have the same bitterness as aubergines. On the contrary it is sweet and juicy and has few seeds
Traditional produce of Santorini. Its seed originates from Egypt (from the time when pumice stone was exported to Suez). Due to the terrain it does not have the same bitterness as aubergines. On the contrary it is sweet and juicy and has few seeds
Santorini Wine – a special grapevine… on a special island !
10:55 PM |
If “necessity” is the mother of invention then “practicality” must surely be its father. Out of necessity comes the need, out of practicality comes the solution. Add to this the genius of Albert who taught us that “things should be made as simple as possible…but no simpler” and voila. We have all the ingredients required for one of the most ingenious inventions in the history of viticulture.
What you are about to see may not be new to some of you, but will be new to a lot of you. In my mind it is the very essence of what being a farmer is about and it is the absolute epitome of what being a farmer/grower on an arid, windblown island is all about. Necessity, invention, minimalism… practicality. Nothing fancy, nothing elaborate, nothing wasteful. Sheer, practical, evolutionary design at work on the land.
Ladies and Gentlemen…. meet the humble Santorini Vine !
It doesn’t look like much… does it? Come to think of it neither does the soil. It simply looks like a desert, or some kind of arid mountain side plant. When you think about it… that’s exactly what it is. But this simple image hides so much, as is often the case with so many wonderful creations.
As you can see, the soil this vine is growing on is not what you expect to see in a vineyard. Its a mixture of lava pebbles (you can clearly see them), volcanic ash, pumice and other materials that combine to make for an un-inspiring soil mix. But the vines love this soft, porous soil as it retains the morning mist – the vines only source of moisture and it allows it to develop a deep root system.
To all of you wine growers out there, or to those who – like me – take great pleasure in walking through or near vineyards just to enjoy the gorgeous views they offer, the Santorini vineyard is a completely different experience.
The terrain is not always flat or gently slopping, as in the picturesque French & Italian vineyards. The islanders will build terraces to take advantage of every available piece of land they own.
That’s not to say however that there aren’t vineyard views to enjoy on Santorini…far from it. The vineyards here seem almost “free”. They are far less formal, far less mechanised, far less “interfered with” than their landscaped cousins around the world. There are no poles or wires holding them up, there are no nets over them, there are not even fences around them. Necessity and practicality rule.
This by any standards is a small ditch…but the growers felt they could fit 10 or so vines in there, so they did and they thrived.
In August…during harvest, the whole family comes out. Everything… and I mean “everything” is done by hand. There is no machine harvesting here… everything is still done the way it has for thousands of years. Same land, same vines… same methods. Just add the love of the growers for what they do… and you have a product that’s unique.
The vines of course are not grown in your typical (vertical way). In the photos above you see them at harvest time, which hides the ingenious work that’s taken to get them to this stage. Let’s take a look at a growing method that is unique in this world we live in.
This is earlier in the year and it allows us to see the “kouloura” (bird’s nest) that the growers have shaped the vine into. This means that the plants profile is low and the winter winds will hardly touch it. All the fruit will grow inside the “kouloura” which protects it from sand storms, birds and all else that can harm it. Then as summer approaches the full foliage of the vine will also protect the fruit from the harsh summer sun. All along however, this ingenious bird’s nest helps trap the morning mist as it goes through the vineyard. The moisture captured is kept under the foliage and transferred to the deep root system through the porous soil. It is the “only” form of irrigation these vines ever receive.
To get the vine to grow in this form is an art, a skill developed over thousands of years and passed on with every generation. It’s simple, highly effective and absolutely ideal for the island conditions. All kinds of technology could have been introduced…. but it hasn’t been. Necessity and practicality, as well as a love for tradition and history, has meant that we are all lucky enough to this day to be able to marvel at this ancient growing method, still working and still producing sublime fruit recognised the world over.
There are a lot of lessons here for all of us dear friends. The yield of these vineyards is low, the temptation from other sectors is very high. The growing method is very difficult and it makes harvest by hand the only option. Yet… I look at the faces on the growers that bring their harvest to the Co-op daily and they are beaming. They simply love what they do, they love what they produce and to them mass production and commoditisation of their beloved grapes is unthinkable. They do this for the love of it.
Maybe that’s why (in my opinion) drinking VinSanto, the world famous naturally sweet dessert wine produced on Santorini…
is as close as you can get to kissing an angel !
is as close as you can get to kissing an angel !
Oia Santorini – digging a cave home (working with an end in mind)
10:30 PM |
Many of you have sent emails asking about the cave… as promised the story continues!
The boys started work at 7am daily… and continued, often till 10pm. Three jackhammers and up to six others shovelling the dirt into bags for the mules to carry up. The noise and dust is unimaginable. I stopped them after a couple of days and asked why none of them were wearing ear-muffs? They just looked at me…
Decisions had to be made…where do the robes go? where does the bookcase go? how wide will the tunnel joining the two caves be? The beauty of digging a cave is that within limits you can dig any space you like….but the dirt has to go somewhere and the cost of the removal by mules can be higher than the cost of the people digging. This old dug out spot was going to be the first robe…
The tunnel was to be three metres long and two wide. It took ten days to dig completely…what you see here was not even half way.
Outside the bags of dirt were piling up…and we weren’t even a quarter of the way through.
You see dear reader there is a lot that’s not known about the cave houses of Santorini. Visitors arrive in spring or summer and find them all freshly painted and ready for the season. The fact is that a lot of them (at least the older ones) have moisture and damp problems. Paint peels off every winter and they have to be scraped and painted every year….unless of course you completely cover the walls with a thick plastic membrane and then place a steel wire mesh over it, to hold the render. Its a delicate art. Every nail holding the plastic has to have rubber seals so that damp will not go through and ruin the walls.To put all this in some perspective I need to tell you at this point that my average week for almost twenty years consisted of flying to another city twice a week, working with clients and staying in hotels. On average… 80 trips a year, for many many MANY years. On most days I would leave a client’s office at 6 or 7pm…. go to the hotel and work till midnight or 1am. I am a nocturne and the many years of travel have reduced my sleeping requirements to no more than four hours a night. So…up at 5am….some more work, then off to the clients for the day followed by a flight home. Apart from the last few years at home, that was my routine for a long long time. But here…. well here things were different. Instead of room service I woke each morning with dust in my mouth. My ears were still ringing from the jackhammers the day before and when I went outside all i could see were endless bags of dirt waiting for the mules. Once those were taken…there were dozens more to replace them from the daily digging.
Oia Santorini – the Great Walk along the cliffs of Santorini
9:50 PM |
I went for a walk this morning. It was a long walk….but not just any walk. This was the Great Walk along the cliffs, facing the caldera of Santorini. We thought you might like to see what we saw…. enjoy ;-)
and soon we were high enough to look back at our village – Oia, in the background…
and in front of us was Imerovigli….
and in front of us was Imerovigli….
just an ordinary Greek church you might say…but how wrong you would be! It was a lovely walk on a Sunday morning…we hope you enjoyed it too ;-)
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